From Mexico to Cambodia: 14 brands present their vision of fashion in Paris

Cultural heritage, family memories and experiments with form shaped the Spring/Summer 2027 collections presented during Paris Fashion Week

Every designer’s collection tells a story, and a runway show helps reveal it through its setting, atmosphere and staging. During Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027, the Moda Productions team, led by founder and CEO Tracy Murray, organised shows for 14 brands at the historic Hôtel de Maisons.

Working closely with each fashion house, the team sought to understand its aesthetic and reflect it in every aspect of the presentation, from the design of the space to the models’ runway entrances. This approach brought collections with distinct identities into a shared setting, keeping the focus on the clothes and the designers’ ideas.

Photographer Celin May @celinmvy

Dancing Flowers: Marcel Ostertag marks 20 years in fashion with his Paris debut

Marcel Ostertag marked his 20th anniversary in fashion with a Paris debut on 2 October at Hôtel de Maisons. His Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Dancing Flowers, drew on nature and the free-spirited glamour of the 1970s. Floral embroidery, cascading ruffles and shimmering fabrics in pink, orange and mint gave the collection a sense of movement and nostalgia.

The show featured bespoke jewellery by Nicole Hayduga, while the designer’s wider Paris programme included an eyewear collaboration with Mister Spex, footwear developed with Medistep and hair-extension specialist TANARAS. Alongside these collaborations, Ostertag continued his focus on age-inclusive fashion, individual expression and the use of luxury deadstock fabrics.

One Second to the Moon: Kilian Kerner’s new chapter in Paris

Kilian Kerner returned to Paris for his second presentation during Paris Fashion Week on 2 October at Hôtel de Maisons. His Spring/Summer 2027 collection, One Second to the Moon, explored the power of a single moment to change the course of a life. Drawing on his own experience of renewed happiness and hope, the Berlin-based designer combined sculptural silhouettes, oversized floral embellishments and rich textures in ivory, warm neutrals and metallic gold.

The show featured footwear by Tamaris, handbags by L.CREDI and jewellery by armor, alongside beauty partner Tweezerman. Kerner’s designs have been worn by Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez and Céline Dion, who chose one of his creations to announce her return to the stage.

Summer ’85: Danny Reinke brings a family story to the Paris runway

Danny Reinke’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Summer ’85, took its starting point from the year his parents met on Germany’s Baltic coast. Presented on 2 October at Hôtel de Maisons, his Paris Fashion Week debut explored nostalgia, freedom and the atmosphere of East Germany’s naturist beaches.

Sheer tulle, softly draped fabrics and delicate layers played with the boundary between dressed and undressed. Sun-kissed tones, pearls and shimmering embellishments recalled summer days by the sea — a landscape familiar to Reinke, who grew up in a fishing family and continues to draw on his coastal heritage in his prêt-à-couture designs.

The presentation included a collaboration with Philips MOVING SOUND, connecting fashion and sound. BINDER Jewellery contributed an exclusive reversible mother-of-pearl pendant, alongside pieces from its CLASSICS, PERCEPTION, SIGNATURE and ENTITY lines.

Sungyi Lee explores strength and fragility in her Paris debut

Korean designer Sungyi Lee presented her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, The Coexistence of Strength and Fragility, at Hôtel de Maisons on 2 October. Already recognised for her work with Design Lab Seoul, Lee used her Paris debut to introduce her aesthetic under her own name.

Sharp tailoring contrasted with sheer fabrics, while expressive florals added a romantic element. The collection explored strength and delicacy through these shifts in structure, texture and transparency.

Thai actor and singer Zee Pruk Panich, known as ZeePruk, appeared on the runway in two looks. South Korean cosmetics brand FORENCOS supported the presentation as a sponsor.

Melmaxi brings couture streetwear to Paris

New York designer Melmaxi presented his Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Hôtel de Maisons on 2 October. His approach to couture streetwear combines expressive textures, custom detailing and luxury craftsmanship, with an emphasis on clothes that reflect the wearer’s personality.

Mentorship from Dapper Dan helped shape the designer’s approach. That connection between fashion and music was also present on the runway, where hip-hop artist Eric B. made an appearance.

Having previously shown at Palais Garnier, Melmaxi returned to Paris with a collection that continued to develop his interpretation of streetwear through distinctive detailing and construction.

Zainab Chottani draws on Pakistani craftsmanship for Bleu Heritage

Pakistani designer Zainab Chottani presented Bleu Heritage, her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, at Hôtel de Maisons on 2 October. Her Paris debut drew inspiration from the blue-and-white pottery of Hala in Sindh, translating its decorative language into embroidered garments.

French lamé, flowing chiffon and silk formed the basis of the collection. Capes, draped silhouettes and intricate Pakistani embroidery brought traditional craftsmanship into a contemporary eveningwear wardrobe.

Music was arranged and mixed by Shahi Hasan, with styling support from Sadaf Malaterre. The audience included diplomatic representatives, fashion journalists and industry guests. Established in bridal couture and luxury fashion, Chottani already serves clients across Pakistan, the United Kingdom, the United States and the Middle East.

Fjolla Nila returns to Paris with SIGNATURE

Founded in Kosovo, fashion house Fjolla Nila returned to Paris on 2 October to present its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, SIGNATURE, at Hôtel de Maisons. The show followed the label’s Paris debut at Palais Garnier earlier in the year.

Sisters Fjolla and Jona Nila focused on fabric construction: sculpted draping, pronounced folds and corsetry shaped the silhouettes, while intricate embellishments introduced sparkle. A bridal look closed the presentation.

Fashion entrepreneur and influencer Negin Mirsalehi wore a Fjolla Nila creation for the occasion. Behind the collection is an atelier of more than 100 artisans, supporting the sisters’ work and drawing on over fifteen years of experience.

Alersundi continues its Paris story

Mexican designer Alejandra Lersundi returned to Hôtel de Maisons on 2 October with Alersundi’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection. The presentation followed her Paris debut in 2025, when Greatest Hits Couture revisited the history of her label.

Founded in Tampico, Mexico, Alersundi centres its work on made-to-order dressing. Carefully considered shapes and delicate detailing reflect an approach shaped around the individual client.

Over nearly two decades, Lersundi has developed an international clientele, with designs worn by Thalía, Danna Paola, Karen Gillan and Leona Lewis. Her latest Paris presentation continued that development, maintaining the label’s focus on personal occasionwear.

HebaJasmi presents a contemporary take on Emirati occasionwear

Emirati designer Heba Jasmi presented her Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Hôtel de Maisons during Paris Fashion Week. The designer behind HebaJasmi brought her focus on intricate embellishment, sculpted silhouettes and couture craftsmanship to the Paris presentation.

Made-to-order creations and detailed handwork are central to the house’s approach. Following collections shown at Dubai Fashion Week and other international presentations, the SS27 showcase continued Jasmi’s exploration of traditional glamour and contemporary eveningwear.

Sarah Abbas presents Sillage in Paris

Jordanian designer Sarah Abbas returned to Paris on 2 October to present Sillage, her Spring/Summer 2027 collection, at Hôtel de Maisons. Delicate embroidery, crystals and fluid eveningwear defined the presentation, with one design inspired by the ancient city of Petra.

Abbas began in industrial engineering before pursuing her interest in fashion illustration and design. She established her atelier in Amman in 2019, where she continues to work with local talent.

Having previously shown at Palais Garnier, the designer is developing her international presence while expanding into ready-to-wear alongside her couture work.

Samira & Regeane explore Mexican maximalism

Mexican cousins Samira Hadad and Regeane Esteban presented MEXIMALISTA, their Spring/Summer 2027 collection, at Hôtel de Maisons on 2 October. Sculptural corsets, lace and sheer fabrics appeared in electric blue, vibrant orange and Mexican pink.

The collection drew on everyday objects and childhood memories. Graphic prints and references to the traditional Mexican balero toy appeared alongside corsetry that reinterpreted the familiar market bag.

DANTE provided footwear, while LULA contributed jewellery and accessories. Paola Tanus and Monse Rebollar, founders of Stylinginc, styled the runway looks. The designers’ shared upbringing in Mexico and Lebanese roots inform the label’s perspective.

ALmée Couture draws on the art of Khmer dance

Cambodian designer Taing Sokhang, known as Hang, made her Paris debut on 2 October with The Art of Remembering, ALmée Couture’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Presented at Hôtel de Maisons, it drew on the hand movements of traditional Khmer Robam dance and the mythical figure of Kenor.

Sculptural gowns, elaborate embellishments and dramatic silhouettes translated elements of dance and folklore into eveningwear. Jewellery by Cambodian house CBVS accompanied the collection.

Founded in 2024, ALmée Couture has already presented at New York Fashion Week and Sanya Bridal Fashion Week. Its Paris debut continued the label’s exploration of Cambodian artistic traditions through couture.

Levorchy by Norjan develops its sculptural approach

Jordanian designer Norjan Alkharouf presented Levorchy by Norjan’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Hôtel de Maisons on 2 October. Sculptural shapes, unexpected proportions and statement detailing defined the label’s approach to occasionwear, with burgundy becoming a recurring part of its visual identity.

Established in Amman in 2021, the house began with a focus on couture and is now exploring ready-to-wear and menswear. Following presentations in Paris and Dubai, its latest show continued Alkharouf’s efforts to develop a broader international presence.

Aleen Sabbagh returns to Paris

Lebanese designer Aleen Sabbagh returned to Paris on 2 October to present her Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Hôtel de Maisons. At 24, the former graphic designer is developing a Beirut-based couture house following her first Paris couture presentation earlier in the year.

Her work in fashion began with her sister Natalie Sabbagh: together, they launched lifestyle label The Concept in 2019 before establishing Aleen Sabbagh Maison de Couture in 2024. The sisters now combine their creative backgrounds in the development of the house’s collections.

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